Le Chic En Rose

A Hazy Day – A Ride Up The Banff Gondola

rosemaylily2014

January 20, 2019

One of the tourist highlights in Banff is to take the Banff Gondola up to the top of Sulphur Mountain to enjoy the spectacular views of Banff, the Bow Valley and the surrounding Rockie mountains afforded from the summit.

However any thoughts of stunning vistas and breathtaking scenery were put to one side as Banff was blanketed for our entire visit in the smoky haze drifting from an enormous wildfire burning some distance away in the national park beyond Lake Louise.

However we were only in Banff for 3 nights, had no idea when we might be back again and it seemed a pity to miss out completely on such a treat – well for me anyway. Monsieur hates heights and so he left me and one of our travelling companions to go up in the gondola on a hot, smoky August morning whilst he headed back into town with the other.

It definitely pays to get there as early as possible in the morning before the crowds arrive. Even on a day when visibility was poor and warning signs were in place about the lack of views and the possible smoke effects, there was a surprisingly large number of people at the summit. Children also go free before 10 am so it is well worth it for families to take up that option as it certainly isn’t cheap. Also a 10% discount applies if you book 48 hours or more in advance.

At the summit there are a number of retail outlets and cafes including the Northern Lights Cafe where we had a late breakfast before setting out on the self-guided Banff Skywalk. Despite the reduced view, the walk was actually very interesting in itself. Up a series of interconnected boardwalks, regular information signs tell you about the flora and fauna of the mountains. For example the increasingly rare Whitebark Pines still grow here, an endangered species since 2012.

Wending your way to the top of the walk you reach a craggy cairn known as Sanson’s Peak. The name commemorates Norman Sanson, curator of the Banff National Park Museum from 1896 to 1932, who not only collected a myriad of specimens for the museum during his lifetime but also recorded meteorological data for many years, regularly climbing up the peak to obtain data. Sanson’s Peak is also the home of the Cosmic Ray Station National Historic Site , a scientific station set up as part of International Geophysical Year in 1957-1958. Canadian scientists were an integral part of the data collection studying cosmic rays and space particles entering the atmosphere. The station was closed in 1978 and so this rocky memorial perched above Banff is all that remains today.

I did hesitate whether to include the Banff Gondola in my Banff series of posts (see here and here for the others) as it was hardly the best day to see the usually stunning views. However travelling doesn’t always go to plan – there will be delays, inclement weather and other glitches. The photos hopefully still give you a flavour of what Sulphur Mountain would be like on a clear day. In addition to the boardwalk trail there are also hiking trails criss-crossing the mountain. It wasn’t really the day though to be lingering outside too long – we started to get itchy eyes and tickling throats from the effects of the smoke so headed back down the mountain again after a short while.

Later that day we drove out to the other side of the valley near the site of the Banff Centre (an arts and creative centre affiliated with the University of Calgary) where you can look back towards Sulphur and Rundle Mountains and normally enjoy a wonderful view. In the late 19th century hot springs were discovered in the area and today there is a large hotel and spa complex in the valley, which you can just about make out in the haze!

Out and About in Perth – Christmas and New Year

rosemaylily2014

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January 13, 2019

A very happy New Year to everyone!

We have had a busy Christmas and New Year with family visitors including our daughter, Mlle, from London for 3 weeks and my cousin from New Zealand for a few days. All this has taken precedence over blogging!

We have done outings to the zoo where the highlight for our granddaughters was Zoorassic Park, following the dinosaur trail, though we also had an unexpected treat when we literally nearly bumped into Tricia, the 61 year old matriarch of the Perth elephant herd, on one of her daily walks round the zoo.

Cafes, restaurants, outings up the coast to Yanchep Lagoon and inland to the wineries of Swan Valley plus a cricket game at Optus Stadium have taken up our time too. The weather is pleasantly mild – am hoping it stays that way as I much prefer the cooling effects of the strong coastal breeze.

Hope everyone else has had a good holiday period and very best wishes for 2019!

Out and about in Banff

rosemaylily2014

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December 16, 2018

We arrived in Banff on an extremely hot August day. The heat and prevailing winds had unfortunately fanned the spread of wildfires in a national park to the north west of Lake Louise and the Rockies were blanketed in thick smoke for most of our visit (clearer in the mornings but drawing in more as the day progressed).

Nevertheless we managed to get out and about even if the scenery was somewhat obscured and the air heavy with the smell of smoke. Accommodation is at a premium in the Banff area and as we were there at the height of the summer season, we stayed at the Inn of the Rockies in self-catering apartments off the road out to Canmore (a more affordable option). We had pre-arranged to hire a car the day after our arrival in Banff. So we used the local taxis to get around initially, which we found efficient, reasonably-priced and the drivers friendly and helpful. There are also plenty of buses in the Banff area and environs if you prefer that option (tricky when you are arriving with a month’s worth of luggage as we were!).

The next morning we headed into town and strolled round the centre gathering our bearings. Banff is in a very pretty setting surrounded by mountains such as Mount Rundle and Cascade Mountain and on the banks of the Bow River, which in summer was meandering gently through the town. Certainly it must be a place of strong seasonal contrasts. When we were looking round the many souvenir shops in the centre, we noticed underground arcades that all seemed shut up but apparently in winter they come alive as people seek shelter from the biting cold at street level.

Being both a summer and winter resort Banff must always be a hub of activity. We came across a great holiday program that the town was running in conjunction with the local Blackfoot First Nations people. We were attracted by the sound of the drums and went to take a look – it was a wonderful program of song and dance, storytelling and learning about the Blackfoot Culture, a great activity for the summer school holidays. On a different note we also saw the memorial to Armistice Day in 1918 and discovered a charming colonial era church.

The visitor centre is down near the river and it is also the site for a farmers and craft market (the Banff Farmers Market) which meets every Wednesday. Happily for us we were there on the right day. Not only was it a great place to pick up some supplies such as fresh fruit and vegetables but a good place to indulge in some souvenir shopping – there were a myriad of stalls selling jewellery, prints, gem stones, art work as well as edible produce.

In the afternoon we headed a few kilometres out of town to Lake Minnewanka, a glacial lake largely man-made where you can hike, take a picnic or head out on a cruise on the pristine waters. Just a note that you need a permit to drive into the national parks – you can pick these up at the visitor centre in town. Originally the Stoney people called this beautiful place “Minn-waki” which means “Lake of Spirits”. Even though the smaller natural lake has now been flooded to provide water for an electric power plant down the Cascade River, the area still has a feel of unspoilt beauty and charm. On a stiflingly hot and smoky day a boat trip was a very refreshing way to spend part of the afternoon. The mountains nearby are home to many wildlife species such as elk and black and brown (grizzly) bears – not that we saw any that day, most probably they were all seeking the shade too!

On a more poignant note, I’d like to dedicate this post to the memory of a special fellow blogger, Joy from Joy Loves Travel who very sadly passed away at the end of November after a long illness. Some of you may have read Joy’s wonderful blog – full of inspiration about overseas travels she took with her beloved husband and son but also activities and outings nearer to their home in North West England. I never met Joy in person but she shone through as such a warm, friendly person in her writings and she was an avid and generous reader of other blogs. I will miss her comments and friendly chats on each other’s blogs as I know will many others. Her husband Paul and son Reuben hope they may carry on Joy’s blog in time. They have bravely posted an update on Joy’s blog recently if anyone would like to post their own tribute there. Rest in Peace Joy.

All Aboard The Rocky Mountaineer- Vancouver to Banff!

rosemaylily2014

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December 9, 2018

One of the highlights of our North American trip was taking the famous Rocky Mountaineer train from Vancouver to Banff. This route is one of the company’s most popular and its name, “First Passage to the West” aptly describes its links with the past. Following in the footsteps (well actually on board a luxury train) this route helps you to understand the building of modern Canada. At Craigallechie we saw the memorial where the “Last Spike” was placed to finally join up the rail tracks coming across from the east to the west.

A few key points to note:

The Rocky Mountaineer is a privately-run railway company. In fact, no other passenger trains go along the tracks we took though there are plenty of large cargo trains (who usually get precedence for passing rights).

It is run with great precision and organisation. Our rail coach had a couple of hosts and a cook. Our hosts not only acted as wait staff but provided a full commentary on the many points of interest. We learnt about the First Nations people, the traditional owners of the land, who still retain fishing rights along the salmon runs, the early colonial explorers who charted unknown territories such as the Fraser River (named after Simon Fraser) and the famous Kicking Horse River and Spiral Tunnels (the latter an engineering feat designed to cope with the problems of negotiating the steep inclines of the Rockies).

It is not a cheap option. Our 2 days and 1 night (you get bussed to a hotel at the mid point in Kamloops) cost about 60% of the cost of our 7 day cruise up to Alaska.

You will be plied with food and drink at every available opportunity. By day 2 we had learnt to pace ourselves!

Taking photos from a moving train, albeit one going fairly slowly, is not that easy though they do “slow downs” at some of the exceptionally scenic spots.

On balance I would recommend travelling during the cooler months at either end of the season (it runs from April to October). It was unfortunate that our 2 days coincided with an incredible heatwave and by the time we reached Kamloops on the first day the outside temperature was around 38 degrees centigrade and the air conditioning in our carriage was struggling to cope.

We took the Silver Class option, which although very comfortable, means you don’t have access to an outside viewing deck like they do in Gold Class but you can still take photographs from the open windows between the carriages.

On our return journey a few days later, we drove from Banff back to Vancouver (this time via Kelowna). We retraced our steps for the first part of the journey as the road runs alongside the train line. Therefore I’ll cover some of the locations we passed through in more detail in later posts.

In the meantime here is a pictorial overview of our train ride. We passed through lush verdant countryside nearer to the coast, crossed the Coast Mountains and headed into a semi-arid rain shadow area, saw amazing rock formations, gorges and gushing rivers and passed through some places with interesting names such as Salmon Arm, Golden and Revelstoke.

On Day 2 as we headed up the Kicking Horse River into the Rockies we also began to see some wildlife: some fine-looking horned sheep were the only ones I managed to photograph, but we did see a black bear scampering behind a rock to hide from the train and a handsome elk munching away on some bushes in the early evening sun.

By the time we arrived in Banff (in Alberta an hour ahead of Pacific Coastal Time) we were naturally pretty tired but it had been a memorable couple of days!

#justanotherdayinwa – Tale of the Jarrah Trees

rosemaylily2014

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December 1, 2018

Western Australia is well known for its attractive jarrah trees. Native to the South West region of the State, these beautiful tall trees (they can grow up to 40 metres tall) have been prized over the years for their wood. A distinctive reddish hue, jarrah wood is hard and durable. It has been used extensively for cabinet making, railway sleepers and in building work.

However if you visit the forests or walk around local parks you may notice some rather sorry looking specimens – trees that are clearly dying. They have fallen victim to “Dieback” a fungal disease that attacks many Australian natives, not just jarrah trees, but many other trees and plants as well including banksias and grass trees. Basically the fungal spores in the soil (probably introduced by European settlers at some stage) infect the root systems of the trees, weakening them. The trees are then unable to take up the water and nutrition necessary for survival so over time they wilt and die.

Once it has taken hold it is almost impossible to stop though the parks departments are experimenting with phosphite fertilisers to try and strengthen the trees’ resistance to the fungal spores. You can read more about the problem and its management here.

One of our local parks has been particularly affected and we always try to avoid walking across it in case we trample mud around (especially in wet weather). Winston the Schnoodle seemed determined to go that way the other day on his morning constitutional though we kept him firmly on the path! You can clearly see the barren and stark trees contrasted with the verdant healthier ones.

We also saw some jarrah renewal areas in the winter when we took a day trip down to Dwellingup and did a train ride and nature trail in the local forest (see here). Hopefully the efforts and conservation work will pay off in time.

I’m not a botanist though I do love seeing beautiful flora whilst out and about. We came across this lovely blue shrub in an alleyway near our house. I think it may be a type of banksia – our elder granddaughter has become something of a flower expert since she started school so I will have to ask her opinion when she next comes over!

Christmas is fast approaching – am not too sure where this year has gone! If all goes to plan I’ll write up the Banff and Rockies posts before then and I still haven’t made a proper start on Alaska – I’ve taken so many photos it’s hard to know what to leave out!

Downtown Vancouver

rosemaylily2014

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November 24, 2018

A montage from Vancouver – a few extra photos that I couldn’t include in my other posts!

Fireworks Pride Weekend and British Colombia Day

Downtown Buildings old and new

Vancouver Downtown by night

Cruise ship Canada Wharf

View from Canada Wharf – seaplane about to take off

Old cafe doorway

Bar in downtown area

View from our hotel

Overall we found Downtown Vancouver easy to explore by foot. I particularly liked the juxtaposition of the older colonial buildings with the ultra-modern tower blocks. Canada Place Wharf, where all the big cruise ships depart from, was just down the road from our hotel (at the end of our trip), the Auberge, but we also had pretty little squares and plenty of cafes, bars and restaurants nearby.

This post rounds off my Vancouver series (see here, here and here for the previous posts). Next time we’ll be heading off to Banff and the Canadian Rockies!

North Vancouver At Dusk

rosemaylily2014

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November 10, 2018

Somewhat confusingly we stayed in Vancouver on 3 separate occasions on our month long North America trip – the first weekend, a night in the middle (after a sideways trip to the Rockies and Banff) and a night at the end before we flew home. For ease of writing up for the blog I’ve decided to do the Vancouver posts in one go (see here and here for the previous posts).

We stayed in the municipality of North Vancouver the night before we boarded our Alaska cruise. We had booked an Airbnb house along with our travelling companions – it was just a quick ride in the car down to the water front or about a 20 minute walk (one way downhill, but back uphill!). Tired after the drive back from Banff (though we did overnight halfway at Kelowna), we took the driving option and found parking surprisingly easy though we did have to use the paid multi storey car park near the Lonsdale Centre.

Situated on the Burrard Inlet, which separates Downtown Vancouver from its northern neighbour, we had been told that there were wonderful views to be had across to the cityscape, especially at night time. The long hot spell had finally broken and it was a rather cool, damp and grey late afternoon.

The information signs were a good way to learn more about the local history and the old port. The area’s history is naturally tied up with the water and ferries regularly ply the waters across to Downtown Vancouver and back again carrying commuters and tourists alike. We had hoped to take the ferry across but time was of the essence so we admired the somewhat brooding view as dusk fell along with some light drizzle. In the distance we could just make out our cruise ship, docked at Canada Wharf.

The Lonsdale Quay Market has become the hub of activities in the area and apart from the fresh produce is home to many cafes, restaurants and a kids play area. Just to the west of the market is the Waterfront Park, which on a finer day would have made a lovely picnic spot. Further round again you come to the start of Stanley Park, a wonderful antidote to Vancouver’s urban skyscrapers. Alas we didn’t have enough time to walk round though we did drive through some of the leafy avenues en route back to the city the next morning.

As the sun set we headed off in search of dinner and ended up at Pier 7 right on the waterfront, which had the most spectacular view of the city illuminated at night (excuse the extra background lights on the flash!).

A Taste of Provence in Yaletown

rosemaylily2014

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November 2, 2018

Our original plan for our first weekend in Vancouver had been to stay in Yaletown Vancouver – a trendy part of town overlooking False Creek.

Once home to the Western Terminus for the Canadian Pacific Railway, it had become a rather forlorn and run down industrial area until it was revitalised by the Expo86, a World Trade Fair with the theme, “Transportation and Communication: World in Motion – World in Touch”.

32 later it is a “happening” part of town with many trendy boutiques, bars and hip restaurants dotted along the waterfront. However the best laid plans of mice and men… for various reasons our pre-booked apartment in Yaletown failed to materialise and so we ended up staying in a hotel closer to Granville Island (see here for previous post). Not wanting to miss out, however, we decided to wander down to Yaletown one evening to check it out and find somewhere for dinner.

I don’t normally do food posts alone but the Provence Marinaside proved to be an inspired choice and deserves a special mention. Famed for its seafood and blending of the flavours of southern France with the abundant produce of British Colombia it was a memorable evening out – the food was beyond superb and the mainly French staff very friendly and helpful. Our waiter was from Montelimar in the Drôme area of southern France (famed for its nougat) and the sommelier, also originally from France, spent a considerable while going through the very lengthy wine list. Provence is definitely not a budget option but was well worthwhile for a special evening at the start of our trip.

Perhaps it is best to let the photos do the talking!

On the way back we walked past the Yaletown Roundhouse, home to the famous Engine 374.

Engine 374 pulled the first transcontinental passenger train, which arrived in Vancouver on 23rd May 1887. After being retired from service in 1945 it eventually found a permanent home in the Pavilion at the Yaletown Roundhouse, where you can visit it today (obviously it was closed when we walked past but fortunately still illuminated).

#Just Another Day In WA – Taylor’s Art and Coffee House Swan Valley

rosemaylily2014

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October 6, 2018

It’s been a busy couple of weeks here with school holidays and outings including to Perth Zoo (always a perennial favourite which I’ve blogged about before here and here) and yesterday we headed off with our elder daughter and 2 young granddaughters to another of our favourite places, the Swan Valley (previous visits here and here).

Unfortunately the weather gods put paid to our planned trip to an animal farm with the brooding clouds suddenly giving way to a heavy thundery downpour. We did, however, manage to have lunch at the charming Taylor’s Art and Coffee House, a first for us though our daughter has been a couple of times before.

The setting is charming – an old vine clad courtyard with flower pots and casual table settings, the olde worlde feel enhanced by the adjacent art gallery and a whimsical pre-loved goods store. The owners serve fresh organic seasonal produce often grown in their own garden (I had a wonderfully simple pea and asparagus risotto and our granddaughters a kids’ tasting plate including fresh fruit and vegetables). Family friendly, it’s the sort of place you can pop in for just a coffee or something more substantial. Although not normally licensed we’d come on the right day as there was a temporary pop up wine bar from a local producer Corymbia Wines (another new discovery for us in the Swan Valley).

Taylor’s also happens to be next door to the Chocolate Factory which naturally caught the kids attention! In the end we were able to get away without too many complaints from the girls (probably helped by the fact they were worried by the crashing thunder and flashes of lightning).

Spring is a bit hit and miss here in Perth at present but all the rain has been good for the gardens and nature reserves.

Our younger daughter arrives for a quick visit from London this week so we are hoping for some lovely sunny Spring Perth days!

Exploring Granville Island, Vancouver

rosemaylily2014

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September 17, 2018

Granville Island Vancouver is a hip and trendy peninsula to the south of Downtown Vancouver. It sits perched under the Granville Street Bridge on the waters of False Creek, once used as a fishing inlet by the First Nations peoples.

Vancouver was originally called Granville after Granville Leveson-Gower, 2nd Earl of Granville (Britain’s Colonial Secretary at the time) but was renamed to its present day moniker in 1886. Formerly an industrial area, Granville has gradually been transformed in the last decades into a shopping and recreational district with an arty and laid-back vibe.

We were there at a busy time – it was the public holiday weekend for British Columbia Day plus the annual Vancouver Pride Festival so everywhere was bustling with people. Still it was not unpleasantly crowded. We enjoyed exploring the fresh food markets (the Granville Island Public Market has been in existence since 1979). As you would expect there was an enormous range of produce – I was happy not only to find so much fresh fruit and vegetables but an old fashioned tea shop selling a vast array of loose leaf teas in old fashioned jars and tins. We also had breakfast in one of the cafes at the end of the market – you are really spoilt for choice here and we found portions to be very generous!

A ride on the ferry is an enjoyable way to explore False Creek and get your bearings. There are plenty of stops along the way including the iconic glass dome of Science World British Columbia plus easy and fast connections to the main Downtown area.

After breakfast and a return ferry ride on the creek, we wandered round absorbing the atmosphere on the island. Street performers, arts and craft shops (including a wonderful bead and jewellery store), plus a pleasant cooling breeze from the water (it was an especially hot weekend) made for a most enjoyable Sunday stroll around.

The vestiges of the once industrial area are preserved too in a quaint and somewhat kitsch display of old concrete mixers.

If all the walking around makes you feel drained, you can always find a strong pick me up at the Liberty Distillery purveyors of gin and vodka or try some handcrafted beer at the Granville Island Brewing Company.

With frequent festivals there is always something going on at Granville Island – check the website here for up to date information. It’s definitely a must-see place on any trip to Vancouver!